Chef Conversations

In the kitchen with Esther Boado of Across the Pond

By Alison Bailin Batz / Photo by Debby Wolvos

Esther Boado is the executive chef of Across the Pond, where she crafts a menu of fresh nigiri and sashimi as well as hand-rolled maki, seasonal Asian dishes and nightly chef’s specialties.

Tell us about Across the Pond’s menu.

The prior space was a wine bar with a microkitchen, so when we took it over, we initially intended it to be an intimate cocktail space with a small food menu. As time went on, we evolved into a full-scale sushi bar utilizing both Japanese technique as well as Filipino influences.

How did the Filipino influence come into play?

While born in Indiana, when I was just a few months old, my family relocated to my father’s native Philippines, where I was raised learning both American – from my mom – and traditional Asian cooking styles and flavors. I moved back to the U.S. to play college soccer, where I found my passion was in the kitchen. I followed my passion, which took me to Arizona to cook at Wilderness Brewing, Clever Koi, Kaizen, and Shimigamo before Across the Pond. Once here, I was given the freedom to impart my culture into the menu.

What are some of your favorite culturally inspired dishes?

Our Kinilaw is a Filipino version of ceviche made by curing fresh seasonal white fish in coconut- and Key lime-infused vinegar and grapefruit and pairing with ginger, pickled vegetables and homemade rice paper crisps. Also, our Singigang is a Filipino comfort food with a distinctly tangy, sour, savory broth. Ours boasts salmon sashimi, pickled vegetables, scallions, and micro greens.

You compare playing soccer to running a kitchen. How are they similar?

Both are team driven and fast-paced. You have to read strengths, know when to push or pass, and work toward a shared goal. Also – surprise – cooking is a lot more cardio than you would expect! Both take tremendous stamina.

What would readers be surprised to know about you?

My degree is actually in graphic design, and I can play four instruments: piano, bass guitar, lead guitar, and drums. I also sing!

Across the Pond, 4236 N. Central Ave., Phoenix; www.acrossthepondphx.com; 602.296.5629.