Sweet Surprises

Where to indulge in the trickiest treats around town

By Alison Bailin Batz

While there is nothing wrong with the classics when it comes to dessert, sometimes a tricky twist on tradition is good. Across the Valley, chefs are having a little fun with the final course, slipping in savory ingredients, playing with temperature and texture, and dreaming up over-the-top presentations that put a surprising spin on something sweet.

Lemon Meringue Pie
Buck & Rider

There is meringue, and then there is this towering inferno of flavor. Made fresh in-house daily, Buck & Rider’s signature pie begins with a crisp, sweet and salty graham cracker crust filled with bright lemon custard. Each slice is crowned with a cloud of meringue that stretches approximately four inches high, if not more, before being toasted until golden, turning a familiar classic into a dessert with serious vertical appeal. $13. www.buckandrider.com.

Orange Mochi
Telefèric Barcelona

Looks can be deliciously deceiving and that’s the case here. Inspired by the appearance of traditional Japanese mochi, this playful creation celebrates the flavors of a Spanish Valencian orange. Beneath its delicate exterior is silky orange mousse layered with citrus jelly for a bright burst of freshness, while a nut-studded orange crumble adds texture. The contrast is part of the fun, but the unexpected marriage of Japanese form and Spanish flavor delivers the real surprise. $12. www.telefericbarcelona.com.

Miso Creme Brulee Cheesecake
On the Rocks

Creme brulee or cheesecake? There is no need to choose. This mashup combines the silky richness of condensed-milk cheesecake with the signature torched sugar crust of creme brulee, creating a creamy interior beneath a crackling caramelized shell. Then comes the unexpected ingredient: white miso. More commonly associated with savory Asian cooking, it brings salty, umami-rich depth that plays almost like salted caramel against the sweetness. Strawberry sauce adds brightness, while a buttery pastry twist and sculptural sugar decoration provide crunch and visual drama. $16. www.marriott.com/phxtm.

Cookies & Cream Popcorn Sundae
Steak 44

Popcorn crashes the ice cream party at Steak 44, transforming a nostalgic sundae into a salty, sweet surprise. Vanilla bean gelato forms the base before warm housemade hot fudge and clouds of vanilla-sweetened whipped cream are piled on top. Rather than stopping with traditional cookie crumbles, the kitchen finishes the creation with cookies and cream popcorn. The unconventional topping results in a childhood-inspired dessert that tastes decidedly more grown-up. $18. www.steak44.com.

Elaneer Payasam Delight
Nadu Phoenix

Payasam is traditionally a delicate coconut milk pudding, but Nadu completely dismantles expectations with its architectural interpretation of the south Indian favorite. Tender coconut kharvas provides the foundation for housemade coconut ice cream and bittersweet coconut caramel before coconut chikki, crisp milk wafers and icy coconut granita enter the equation. Rather than presenting coconut in one familiar form, the dessert explores it through dramatically different temperatures and textures, moving from silky and creamy to frozen, crunchy and caramelized with nearly every spoonful. $12. www.naduphoenix.com.

Peanut Butter Bombe
Elements at Sanctuary Camelback Mountain Resort & Spa

The surprise here is hiding in plain sight. What initially appears to be a sleek chocolate dome reveals far more once broken open, exposing silky peanut butter mousse and rich chocolate peanut ganache within. Even then, there is another unexpected element waiting on the plate. Cocoa nib caramel popcorn adds a salty, sweet crunch that cuts through the creamy fillings, while additional chocolate accents reinforce the richness. Part presentation piece and part edible treasure hunt, the bombe keeps changing as each layer is uncovered. $17. www.sanctuaryaz.com.

Huckleberry Cheesecake
Roaring Fork

Huckleberries are hardly an everyday sight on Valley dessert menus, which makes this signature cheesecake an unexpected showcase for the fruit. A buttery graham cracker crust supports the rich, velvety filling, where a vivid huckleberry swirl weaves subtle tartness through the creaminess. Housemade huckleberry sauce intensifies the berry flavor while providing a bright counterpoint to the richness of the cheesecake, resulting in a familiar dessert transformed by an uncommon yet perfect piece of produce. $12. www.roaringfork.com.

Apple Mascarpone Cannoli
Quiessence at The Farm

Celery for dessert? Absolutely. Quiessence takes the savory staple and pairs it with apple in this inventive cannoli, which features the fruit four ways: sorbet, dust, chip and fresh brunoise folded into the filling. Even that filling breaks from tradition, swapping classic ricotta for silkier mascarpone. Candied hazelnuts and house caramel sauce introduce sweetness and crunch before celery heart brings a fresh, vegetal finish, creating a combination that moves between sweet, creamy, crisp, and savory flavors in unexpected ways. $17. www.qatthefarm.com.

Pistachio Sundae
Élephante

There is no simple scoop hiding inside this sundae. Vanilla marshmallow soft serve is piled with shattering honeycomb, caramelized phyllo, pistachio marshmallows, pistachio caramel and crushed pistachios, creating layer after layer of contrasting texture. Soft serve melts into sticky marshmallow, crisp phyllo gives way to crunchy honeycomb, and pistachio appears in multiple forms throughout. Rather than relying on a single unusual ingredient for its wow factor, this creation contains many, making nearly every spoonful different from the one before it. $12. www.elephanterestaurants.com.

The G.O.A.T. Cheese Cheesecake
Lovecraft

The name offers the first clue that this is not an ordinary cheesecake. Lovecraft takes the “cheese” portion literally, folding tangy goat cheese and fresh rosemary into the creamy filling for a decidedly savory departure from tradition. A housemade gingersnap crust brings warm spice and crunch, while lavender honey drizzled over the top adds floral sweetness that softens the goat cheese and complements the rosemary. Earthy, aromatic, tangy, and sweet all at once, this G.O.A.T. earns its name by refusing to play dessert by the usual rules. $11. www.lovecraftphx.com.